The Psychology Behind Fast Fashion
The overconsumption of fast fashion has become increasingly perceptible in the buying behaviors of consumers and the production habits of fast fashion retailers, who are fuelled by unceasing consumer demand for their products. While the Generation Z demographic (aged between 18 and 24) attempts to prioritize ethical companies that make a tangible social and environmental impact, their knowledge and awareness does not, and cannot, always translate into action that aligns with their beliefs. A study by McKinsey classified Gen Z’s outlook on consumption as “access rather than possession”, an “expression of individual identity”, and a “matter of ethical concern”. The following article examines the driving factors of the overconsumption of fast fashion under the lens of Gen Z’s distinct values, attitudes, and behaviors, as well as general consumer behavior.
- Affordability and Accessibility.
Because of the increasing accessibility to quick and cheap fashion, consumers have been conditioned to believe that prices should be unrealistically low, and view clothing as disposable rather than durable. When prices are this low, there is nearly no perceived risk associated with the purchase, so consumers are not bothered that their clothing items will not withstand the test of time. The rapid design-to-retail cycles of fast fashion brands adds to accessibility by continuously ramping up supply and variations in product offerings. - Perceived Scarcity.
Fast fashion thrives on perceived scarcity, defined as the “perception of product shortage experienced by the consumer for a particular size or style that is strategically created by the retailer”. This notion arises from brands’ tactics of frequently swapping out collections to keep up with trends and their strategic control and positioning of merchandise on the retail floor, to make it appear as though items are available in limited quantities. Scarcity incites reactance, wherein consumers place greater psychological importance on products perceived to be scarce when confronted with circumstances of product shortage. For this reason, they demonstrate behaviors like urgency and hoarding. Perceived scarcity impacts consumers’ anticipated regret. By generating uncertainty about a product’s future availability, fast fashion companies make consumers feel that if they aren’t able to acquire the product instantaneously, they might not be able to do so again. This looming anticipation of regret prompts consumers to purchase the desired product before it is too late. - Emotional Arousal and Impulse Buying.
The arousal of consumer’s emotions (chiefly negative ones, like regret and worry) prompts them to make impulse purchases, which do not involve planning or rational control. Thus, consumers engage in impulse buying, defined as a “consumer’s tendency to buy spontaneously, unreflectively, immediately, and kinetically”. Research indicates that product categories with which consumers have strong emotional attachments are often purchased impulsively. Such is the case for fashion, as it is a mode of self-expression highly correlated to identity and acceptance within society. - Hedonic Consumption.
Since the purchase of fast fashion involves emotions, desire, and impulse, it is a classic example of hedonic consumption. As opposed to utilitarian purchases, which revolve around necessity, hedonic purchases occur when consumers derive pleasure from shopping and are not looking to serve a completely rational need. Those who experience emotional pleasure while making impulse purchases are unlikely to consider the consequences of their spending behaviors, and are thus more likely to overspend. This further incites overconsumption. Because hedonic purchases are typically harder to justify than utilitarian ones due to their impulsive nature, it is theorized that promotions have a stronger positive effect on the purchase likelihood of hedonic purchases. Fast fashion brands are cognizant of this behavior, so in addition to already offering products at low prices, they hold sales to encourage guilt-free and repeat purchases. Brands constantly offer price discounts, coupons, promotion codes, and loyalty rewards that help consumers feel better about their purchases.
In hedonic purchases, consumers follow the experiential hierarchy of effects, where they act on emotional reactions instead of employing the archetypal decision-making process. First, consumers examine their attitudes and feelings surrounding a product. If they experience positive affect, they immediately fulfill their desires by making the purchase. Subsequently, consumers evaluate the benefits or disadvantages of the purchase. In contrast, the “typical” decision-making process follows the course of consumers who possess a preexisting need, conduct research and compare product alternatives, make the purchase, use the product, and then evaluate the product in relation to prior expectations and beliefs. Because fast fashion items are so quickly replaced and updated, consumers may not have the chance to go through this rational, multi-pronged decision-making process. - Lack of Affordable Alternatives.
While there are a handful of sustainable fashion brands, clothes produced by such companies are considered unaffordable, especially by Gen Z. Though sustainable fashion is ideal, the average Gen Z consumer cannot afford to buy essentials at luxurious prices, as they prioritize necessary aspects of living like education, rent, and food. A survey conducted by Nosto revealed that while more than half of respondents said they wanted brands to behave more sustainably, only a third were prepared to pay more to do so. These results demonstrate that price significantly inhibits the consumption of sustainable fashion. Cognitive dissonance is extremely conspicuous here, as consumers desire to meet two conflicting objectives — sustainability and cheaper prices — at the same time. As a result of high costs of production and insufficient consumer demand, sustainable companies cannot set low prices until there is an increase in demand that would enable economies of scale. - Social Media.
Overconsumption stems from the pressure to keep up with trends, prompted by social media. Peers and influencers emanate the impression that styles are ever-changing and that we must keep up to fit in. The popularity of influencer culture and Instagram as a platform where users can develop personal brands suggests that acquiring the latest clothes can help them to be seen as “trendy” and hence, successful. Users aspire to emulate the lifestyles and appearance of their favorite influencers, which is made possible by making the same purchase decisions. As 97% of Gen Z utilizes social media, visual perception and aesthetics have become important in creating relationships and judgments of others. It has even reached the extent where wearing the same outfit twice may be viewed as “taboo”. However, increasing social media promotion and awareness of substitutes to fast fashion, like thrifting and renting clothes, could prove useful in diverting some consumers away from unsustainable practices.
Overall, overconsumption is driven by the internal biases and needs of consumers as well as the artificial mirage of circumstances welded by fast fashion brands. The fast fashion business model relies on exploiting the weaknesses that lay within consumers’ desires and emotions to yield profits and prolonged devotion to their brands. Gen Z consumers in particular tend to be more price-sensitive because of their limited disposable incomes and prioritization of survival rather than luxury in all aspects of living. They consume fast fashion not only because it serves functional and economical purposes, but also because it helps them fit in with peers and conform with ever-evolving trends. Generally, consumers lack a cognitive basis for their fast fashion purchases, instead instigated by emotions, impulse, and desire.
